Camera Controls: Left Side, Right Side, Bottom and Front
Camera Controls: Left Side, Right Side, Bottom and Front
9. Camera Controls: Left Side, Right Side, Bottom and Front
Class introduction12:33 2
Photo Basics04:07 3
Camera Controls: Exposure Control03:57 4
Camera Controls: Top Deck21:14 5
Camera Controls: Drive and Metering33:54 6
Camera Controls: Back Side26:44 7
Quick Menu Overview26:28 8
Camera Controls: Back Side Navigation08:21
Camera Controls: Left Side, Right Side, Bottom and Front15:05 10
Menu Functions: Image Quality13:59 12
Menu Functions: Focus Settings20:18 13
Menu Functions: Shooting Setting21:19 14
Menu Functions: Flash Settings05:31 15
Menu Functions: Movie Setting19:22 16
Menu Functions: User Settings05:38 17
Menu Functions: Screen Set Up09:10 18
Menu Functions: Button Dial Settings15:23 19
Menu Functions: Power Management and Save Data Set Up04:40 20
Menu Functions: Connection Settings13:43 21
Menu Functions: My Menu03:13 22
Menu Functions: Playback Menu08:14 23
Camera Controls: Left Side, Right Side, Bottom and Front
working my way over to the left side of the camera. We get a better view of our Diop ter over there that could be adjusted for focusing the viewfinder. And then we have a big old door, and this is kind of cool. I haven't seen anybody else do this before. This is a detachable door. There's a little spring in the hinge that you can take off the door. So if you are using this for video purposes and there's a lot of things plugged in and out of your camera, you could just take the door off so it doesn't get broken or lost or anything else. All right, so we have a bunch of different controls in here. Let's take a look at what we have. First up is our Mike level are Mike Jack. Excuse me, and this is where you can plug in a standard 3.5 millimeter phono Jack. And this is something that you can work with a variety of products out there. Fuji does make their own little on camera microphone, but this will hook up for pretty much anything else that is out there. We have our standard 3.5 millimete...
rs stereo mini jack for headphones for monitoring sound that you are recording. We have a USB type C connector here. So this is the latest generation of us BC or USB, and this allows you to charge in camera. And so you can plug a USB connector into a USB plug and charge in camera, which I think is fantastic, because when I do travel photography, one of the things I talk about his backups and so on this camera, you bring a battery charger, you charge your battery in there. What happens if you lose your battery charger? Normally, with most cameras, you would be out of luck. But with this camera, just bring an extra cable, plug it in there and you can charge in camera. Be a little light on the back of the camera that will let you know that you're charging. It'll take a little bit longer than the dedicated, battered battery charger, but it will still get the job done. And finally, we have our H d m I micro connector tight D, and this is going to enable you to hook up your camera to various types and monitor it could be a small monitor you're using on camera for shooting video. It could be a larger monitor that you're doing a slide show on a TV now, if you want, you can record video coming out of there. If you have a video recorder. In that case, it's gonna be a 4 to 2 output. If you're recording onto the internal card, it's 4 to 0. And so there is a slight difference in quality. It's higher quality going out to an external device in a lower quality internal. Why does it do that? I think because that higher quality is gonna build up more heat that the camera cannot handle. And so if it's an external device that can handle recording that much data, it probably has better heat dissipation than the camera does over on to the right side of the camera. We have a little door up on top here, and this is the remote release. Now, for those of you coming from the X t two, they've changed the remote on this. They have a different style remote on this, and so they have the R 100 which is a remote they've used before. and something like this is gonna sell for about $40. And if you would like to save a little bit of money you can buy, and I know this hurts, but you can buy a cannon remote the RS 60 e three, and it's a standard 2.5 millimeter plug on their It works on a variety of devices, and that's going to be about half price. But if you would like to save even more money, you can get a generic one like this fellow, which is even about half price of what the cannon is, and it's the same size. It's a very common switch that's used on a lot of different cameras. And if you want Elektronik Lee trigger the cable or that showed a release of the camera with this cable, you're not gonna be moving the camera around. So it's good for any time the cameras on a tripod and you don't want to induce any extra movement. Next up is our memory cards. We have dual slots in here for the SD memory card. These air both you hs two compatible so that they can use the highest end U. H s cards out there. Right now, we have the options of slot one slot to, and you'll see an indicator in the LCD and in the viewfinder as to whether there's a card in the slot and whether you are actually recording to that card or if the camera is set to that at this time. And if you want to control which card the movies go to the stills the way things are backed up, there's gonna be a whole section in the set up men you for this. Now, remember, if you want to switch playback of the cards, you're playing images back and you want to switch from one card to the next. If you press and hold the play button for two seconds, it'll switch back and forth from 1 to 2 and 2 to it uses The standard SD cards is I say it does use the new You HS two, as well as the U HS one style card for fastest recording and fastest readout possible. First off, you'll have the size of the card s THC and exceed options on this will all work. We have the bus speed if you are gonna be shooting a lot of video. If you're gonna be shooting fast frame rates and you want it to be recorded the card as quickly as possible, you probably want to look at the U HS two cards because they give you the greatest capability. And then, if you're gonna be recording high end video four K video, you're gonna want one of the faster cards, and they have the speed of the card rated in many different styles. But if you are shooting video, you're probably gonna be wanting to get a you HS card speed class of three or greater. And if you're shooting video, you probably want one of the V 60 cards or faster. Now for downloading, you can use three USB connection to download to the computer. It's rather slow and a little bit cumbersome, so I recommend for most people to get the card reader. It's a little bit faster, a little bit easier. You don't need the camera. You don't need batteries in the camera. Anything else? If you have a card slot on your computer, that's very good as well, forgetting it into your computer as quickly as possible. Working on to the bottom of the camera is thestreet and erred. Tripod socket Quarter 20. Plug for all your standard accessories it down there. We do have the speaker. It's kind of an unusual location for the speaker, but that's where the speaker is on the camera. Next up, battery door and battery. So camera has a little orange tab There makes it very easy for knowing which way to load the battery in there and for keeping it set in there. The camera uses the N P W 1 26 s battery, and the newest of the batteries have a round circle, and the older batteries have a square, and it still works with those older batteries. It's just not as good at heat management. Apparently, they've done some sort of change in the new battery, where it doesn't get quite as hot. And that could be important when shooting video camera does come with its own battery charger, and thankfully, now they are supplying it with an angled plugs so that it becomes a travel charger and is very compact in size. The green means its charging are green means its charging in when it turns off. It has fully charged. And if you want to see how good your battery is, you can look at the display on the back of the camera and on the upper right hand corner. It gives you a very fine tuned control as to how much battery life you have left. It's not very common, but if you did want to hook your camera up to a power source so that it had continuous power, you could do that with these various accessories. And that's why there's a little rubber cover in the side of the door there so you can have the cable coming out to have the camera plugged into the wall on the bottom of the camera. We have some connectors, and we come some alignment holes, and so this is so that you can attach the vertical grip to the camera and this will's house two different batteries in there. You'll also have a battery in the camera itself, and so you have up to three batteries going at the same time. If you need power over a long period of time, there is an A C power adapter that comes with that grip. So if you do want to plug the camera, and you can use that as well. The vertical grip, I think, is really handy for people who shoot vertical a lot. It's more comfortable, it's steadier, and you tend to do this lot if you shoot people, whether it be portrait photography or sports, photography can be a very handy, helpful device in those fields. Working around to the front of the camera. We have a little screw cover here, and this is the P. C. Synch Terminal. Not too many people use this to hook up to flash units, but if you are in the studio and you want to hook up and you want to synchronize your camera with the flashes, this is one way of doing it directly into the camera. The focus mode down on this bottom. Very important switch on this, and this controls how the camera focuses. So let's look at these three options. First option is s for single, which means the camera is gonna focus once, look for a subject and then it's going to stop. And this is good for most general basic types of photography. Next up is continuous, and this is where the camera will track action as it comes towards you, and away from camera does a very good job at it. There is a difference in some of the lenses. Some of the lenses are a little bit better and faster, a tracking action than others. And finally, we have M for manual. And this is where you can focus yourself, uh, on whatever you want. If you want, you can use that eight yell button in the back of the camera any time. The camera is in manual focus, and it's an auto focus override. And so that is basically your back button focused. Your simplest back button focuses, put it in manual and then hit the A T l button on the back of the camera. And so that's autofocus option, just as you want it for any particular photograph. So that is your focus mode. Very important control on the camera. All right, well, this is about as close as we get to the sensor. 26 megapixel sensor, 1. crop. Very good image quality from it, in my opinion. Now, one of things that's different about many of the Fuji cameras, not all of them but this one is that it doesn't use the standard pixel array when on its system. Most cameras use a bear pattern system, and the problem is, is that you get a little bit of more Ray. When there is a bad alignment between fine textured products or architecture, you could get a Marais problem where the lines don't line up properly with the pixels on the screen. And so they've put together this X trans CMOS three sensor, which has a little bit more random pattern to where all the colors are. And it's less likely to get this Marais. And there have been able to improve the sharpness of the year images from the camera from the sensor because they've taken off this low pass filter that most cameras have in front of the sensor, most all 24 megapixel. And they're about cameras have this filter in front of the sensor that makes it just a little bit blurry so that they don't get a Marais problem. This camera does not have that, and that is why when you see the sharpness of this camera compared to other cameras, even cameras with more megapixels, it seems to compete quite well with them, given what it has. And so this is part of the reason for Fuji's magic, you might say behind the same. All right, we have our lens contacts for communicating with our lenses and our various lens mount features. We have our lens release button. There's a pin that locks into the lens to make sure it's aligned in the right position. When you're mounting your lens is, you just want to look for the orange dot on the lenses and on the Mount to make sure that it's aligned properly. And so if you are new to interchangeable lenses, do not fear changing lenses. It's quite easy. Let me just show you real quickly here as I turn the camera around more towards you. And so just look for the orange dot on the lens and on the Mount. You want to get those lined up and turn the lance until you hear the click. Wait for the click. There you go, and that means it's mounted on properly. Now. I don't recommend leaving the camera without a lens or a body cap on it for much time because the sensor is very exposed there is no shudder unit in front of it. There is no mere in front of it. And so the last thing you want to do is to leave your camera around with the lens off and the sensor pointed up in the air were dust, and things can fall on it, so I try to keep that covered to keep it clean. On the front of the camera, we have this function to button. We were using this button quite a bit with the drive mode to select the sub menus once we were in there. But it does a number of different things, and you can, of course, going to the set up menu and pre re program it to do whatever you want. Right now, it's pre programmed for Dr Settings. It's not the primary drive settings, but it's kind of the secondary drive settings. After you've selected the dial on the top of the camera, the front command I'll like the rear command. I'll is also a push button and has many different controls. So you'll use this for many different things, depending on which mode you are in the little light on the front of the camera is an emphasis. Light could be a tally light. It's also a self timer light. If you don't like this coming on for a particular reason, you can turn it off. And if you want to use it as a tally light, you can go in and select to turn it on. This is one of those things that I recommend turning off so that you're not, um, disturbing the subject you're photographing or other photographers around you. But it's something that only works for about 56 feet, couple of meters, and so it has a limited range as to how much it can help the camera focus under low light conditions, so that covers us on the front of the camera.
Ratings and Reviews
Thank you it's super helpful. I loved it :)
I've been with CL for quite a while and I pretty much got used to (all of) John's top quality classes. Kinda been waiting for this one over the last months. So thanks again, John, for your consistent 5 star quality standard!!
I loved this class! How much did I love this class? I loved this class and I don't even have an X-T3! I have the Fujifilm X100V, a camera similar enough to the X-T3 that this class easily covered 85% - 90% of the features on my camera. It's also a camera new enough that there isn't much available on how to use it. This class got the job done for me. Well done, John!