Save Data Set-Up & Connection Setting
Next up is the save data setup, and so this is how we are saving images to the memory card. First up is a frame number, and so obviously, the camera is going to give a file number to each frame that you shoot. Normally, it's in a continuous mode, where it goes through a cycle of ten thousand and starts over again. If you want to renew it from one, you can. There are a variety of reasons why you might need that, but most people simply leave it in the continuous mode. If you recall, the camera can shoot red eye and fix it in post production. And what it does is it sees that an image has red eye, it fixes it, makes a new version of it, and then it throws away the original image. If you save the original image, you get to keep the original image in case the built in processing of the camera did not do a good job, and you want that original image to go back and fix it. And so I always like to keep original images, and so that's why I think that turning it on is a safe choice to make. If you...
don't like the file name, whether you're shooting with SRGB or Adobe RGB, which have slightly different naming protocols, you can go in and change those letters, and so if you want, you can put in a job code, you could put in your initials using the little keyboard, and it takes a little while because you have to go up, down, left, right, hit okay, and then you can change it to your initials, for instance, and then all your file names will be starting with your initials, followed by a four digit number. Card slot setting. And so we have a different modes, because we have two cards in the camera, if you have two cards in there, how does it store the image on those two cards? The first option is sequential. It fills up one card, when that fills up, images start going to the second card. Backup, simultaneously sends information to both cards. Raw Jpeg sends raws to one card and jpegs to the other. So that last option might be nice if you're gonna keep the raws but you need to deliver on site jpegs to somebody else. They can have them immediately to work with, you can work with the raws as soon as you're done with the shoot, just by splitting them up. Be aware though, if you put exact same size memory cards in both slots, it's gonna fill up whenever the raw fills up, and there's gonna be a bunch of empty space on the jpeg, but you're not gonna be able to use it because of writing both files simultaneously. The serious pros, shooting important events, are gonna shoot backup, that way everything is stored on two cards. If there's a corrupt image written to one card, it's probably gonna be okay on the other card. Most people are probably fine with sequential. When one card fills up, it goes over to the next card. Switching slots, here is where you get to choose which slot you are recording to, and so, if it's big, and it's white, and it's got an arrow under it, that's the card that you're going to, and so you can send all the information to card one, card two, you can send it to both cards, you can split the raws and jpegs between the cards, and so, do what you need to here. You will need to choose a primary slots if you are choosing the sequential, where you're recording from one card and then it overfills to the next. Next up is the movie file destination. If you have a faster memory card, you may want to use that for all of your movie recording. And you can use that in one particular slot, and then keep all your stills going to the other slot. And that's your save data setup. Next up is connection settings, and we're gonna go through this pretty quickly. There's a lot of menus within menus in here that we're not gonna try to get too lost in. So we have wireless settings, which brings us into general settings within wireless settings, which brings us into another said menu, where you can change the name of the camera, the way it comes up, and the wifi system. If you don't want it to say Fuji X-T2, you want it to say something else, you can type that in here, and that'll show up in the wifi system in your camera as something different. If you want to reset all the wireless systems, because normally it kind of remembers these electronic handshakes, you can reset everything here back to the default settings. Next up, resizing the image size for the smart phone. Normally the camera wants to resize down to three megapixels that way it doesn't use as much wifi and battery power from the camera and the phone to transfer the images, and three megapixels is more than sufficient for sending basic images up onto basic websites like Facebook, Instagram, and so forth. And so, if you do want to get the full image across, there's gonna be a little price to pay in the time and the processing power of that, so most people are fine leaving that on for the three megapixels. PC auto save settings, it is possible to get this camera hooked up to a PC computer, where it will automatically save settings. There is a simple setup and there is a manual setup for it. You can try the simple setup and hopefully it'll work, if not, then you may need to go to the manual setup. The simple setup is a WPS system, for those of you that are familiar with that. And the manual system is a normal system. There is a geo tagging setup option, and this dives into another sub menu, so geo tagging in there can be turned on and off, and what this does is it actually has two different things, it's recording information, where you are at different times, and that information can be transferred to the phone via the wifi system. And so there is geo tagging, and then there's also location info, which on this one I believe it is just where you have done the download, not where you actually shot the photos, but where you were when you downloaded the photos. And so the camera does not have GPS in it, so it does make that system a little bit more cumbersome. Next up is the instax printer connection. There's a very cool Fuji instax printer for anyone who enjoys Polaroid pictures and instant pictures, you can shoot with a really nice camera, send those pictures wirelessly to the instax printer in here. If you want to change the SSID number, you can do that, not totally necessary, but it's available to do if you need to do it. The PC shooting mode, if you are connecting and tethered up to the computer, you can do that with this camera. It is on firmware 1.1 or later, so it was not on the original firmware that came with the camera. And so, download the latest software to make sure that you have the right thing there. For Windows systems, you'll want to look at the Fuji HSV5 software. If you want to be in Adobe Lightroom, there is a special plugin called Tether Shooting Plugin Pro, and so you might want to do a little web search on those items. The Adobe one, I believe that is not free, you do have to pay for that little plugin so that you can do the lightroom tethering yourself. Now, normally this is gonna be turned off, cause most people are not tethering most of the time. If you do want to put it in the USB auto mode, most systems will automatically figure out it's in the USB mode, but if you want to fix it permanently in the USB, in case it's not automatically picking up the fact that it's tethered, you could put it in the USB fixed mode. Okay, that is your connection settings. Next up, is my menu, and we already looked earlier about how we can customize this menu. And so you have two pages of I believe 16 items that you get to put in here, so that will be an important way for you to customize your camera and organize that information.