Segment 11 - Setup Menu
Segment 11 - Setup Menu
11. Segment 11 - Setup Menu
Segment 1 - Introduction and Overview22:52 2
Segment 2 - Top Deck: Right Side22:22 3
Segment 3 - Top Deck: Left Side21:41 4
Back Side28:48 5
Segment 5 - Live View Mode23:48 6
Segment 6 - Flash and Focusing Modes28:22 7
Segment 7 - Right, Bottom, and Front Sides10:08 8
Segment 8 - Nikon Lenses11:40
Segment 9 - Playback and Shooting Menus38:11 10
Segment 10 - Custom Menu37:38 11
Segment 11 - Setup Menu14:19 12
Segment 12 - Retouch Menu and Camera Operation19:08 13
Segment 11 - Setup Menu
One of the last big areas we need to go through is just the setup menu and this is one of those areas that we don't come back to on a regular basis with the exception of the very first setting in here, which is formatting the memory card this initialize is erases the data all the directory all the ghost holders, everything on the car re initialize is it when you buy a brand new memory card? When you get a memory card from another camera and you want to get it set up for this camera, you should form at the memory card it's kind of the default system that I do when I go out on a shoot and make sure that I've downloaded the photos off that memory card and I am now formatting it and I'm going out with a nice clean fresh memory card that has many photos as possible with nothing no residual issues left from some prior usage next up monitor brightness. Normally this is going to be left at zero, but you can if you want, set the brightness brighter or darker. I know in some situations where I'm...
trying to share photographs under very bright light situations, I need to bump up the brightness of the monitor there is also an auto setting, but I don't recommend using it because a lot of times that you are using the screen to judge the exposure of your images, and you don't want that to change according to how bright it is outside. If you are not satisfied with the color balance of the monitor, you can adjust the color balance of the way the images look just on the monitor, you're not affecting the image, it's, just the monitor that you're adjusting, cleaning the image sensor. Normally, I would leave the set at clean at startup and shut down so that when you either start up the camera or shut it down, it goes to an automatic censor cleaning what's going on is that there is an ultra sonics cleanser cleanser, vibrator, that's vibrating the sensor to try to get the dust off of the sensor, and this is really good because it saves cleaning the camera and a manual sense. If you do need to clean the camera manually, you can lock the camera up to clean the mirror, and if you do want to do this, there's a couple stages to it. The first step is just an air blower it's, not compressed air, and they can it's something that you squeeze with your hand because that's not going to damage your sensor, and you might be able to blow off dust that is kind of stuck on your sensor, you might say. The second step not everybody feels comfortable with but is very effective in cleaning off really gunky things and this is what a repair shop would do is they would put a couple of drops of alcohol on the sensor and they would sweep the sensor clean and so you basically just wiping off the dust, but you do need be very careful about doing this. Another option for cleaning off dust is the image dust off reference photo so if you take a photo that looks like this, you have a serious dust problem and so the idea here is for you to take a picture of a white sheet of paper and the camera will then learn about where all the dust is and it will then clone it out on subsequent images so that you have nice clean images and so that would be something that I don't want to do on a regular basis. I don't like the camera cloning over pixels, but this is something that could be done in an emergency situation and I believe that you will need the nikon software for you to see this take place on raw images. Next up flicker reduction so if you're using live you or the movie mode, you might notice a flickering problem due to kind of incompatibility with the current fluorescent lights that you're working under normally the auto mode will automatically adjust away from that but if you are having issues, you could go change it, either to fifty hurts or sixty hertz for working under different lighting situations. You will, of course, be able to go in and change the time and date and whether you have daylight savings time and the format that the date is read to you on displayed on the information, of course, we'll be able to adjust the language that the menu is in auto image rotation. What this does is it rotates images that are downloaded to your computer. This has nothing to do with what's going on the camera. That was another section that we talked about earlier, and so I would leave this turned on it's going to save you from having to rotate all of your vertical images. Battery info. This is a great place to go check how good your battery is, how much of a charge doesn't have? How old is the battery? How many shots have you taken on the battery? So this is one of those favorite things that I like to come back to on a regular basis, you can actually add image comments to each individual photo now this little system without having a touch screen on the camera, which this camera does not have eyes a little bit cumbersome and time consuming to set in there. But if you wanted to record a name or an identify or or some sort of code, you could add an image comment to any photo the camera does not do mike input or mic microphone comments. It only does this textual type comment one of the cool things that you can do is that you can add your name into the camera under the copyright information that way, once you take a picture once and you download it on the metadata of that image is going to be your name and or contact information. And so this is a way for you to actually put your name in your camera, and also, while I've never tried it never had to use it if your camera was stolen and you were trying to identify that as your camera, it would have your name actually in the menu system and it's probably something the bad guys wouldn't know about checking in the camera. If you have multiple eight tens, you can take all the settings that you have carefully put into this camera and copy them and save them onto another camera. It doesn't work between any different model, so if you have a d eight hundred or seven fifty or something else, you can't copy him from one of those cameras to the other it has to be from one eight ten to another eight ten camera we saw this virtual horizon working earlier this is something that could go in and be selected on the back of the camera as you have it or in the live you mode as well. If you want to use older nikon lenses that do not have elektronik send them for instance they're old manual lenses they mount they fit on the camera you can use forty year old lenses on this camera but sometimes you want to add that metadata that information into the meta data so if you're using a fifty millimeter lands you could say, hey, I am using the fifty millimeter lands and you can give that a lens and lens number number one I think they have nine different lenses that you could have and so if you have different focal links you could quickly go in here tell the camera which lens on the camera and then that would be added in to that information in the metadata which can be handy for for you geeks out there that like to keep track of your data auto focus fine tune all right so let's dive into this a fine tuned sometimes called micro adjustment by other companies. So the idea when you focus with this camera is that it's going to go to its exact intended focusing point but sometimes for a variety of reasons the camera may front focus which means focus in front of your subject or it may back focus and if it does this on a regular basis it needs to be recalibrated and in the past you had to send this camera into a nikon authorized repair center camera and all your lenses that you're having problems with and have them re calibrated now you get to do it yourself and if you want to do this you're going to need the target to focus on and you're going to need to weigh to measure whether that target is in focus or it's focused in front or it's in back if you want you can buy something like this lens a line mark too gives you a targeting focus and then lets you know whether you're front focused or back focused by what's in focus on the right hand slanted side if you're cheap or thrifty or like to be ingenious you can create your own with a ruler and a yardstick you focus on the ruler you look on the yard stick to see where what's in focus and you can see if your camera is actually focusing the way it's supposed to and so I did a test like this just to see how my cameras and I noticed that it was a little bit off it was front focusing by just a sliver of an amount and you can go into the fine tuning you can adjust this for minus twenty two plus twenty and on this on my lands, I had to adjust it toe about a plus five settings, so I had to just move it incrementally back five steps, because it was front, focusing a little bit. Now, if you do want to do this, you're going to need to get everything set up with all of your lenses to take the sharpest possible shallow depth of field pictures. So this is where you get your tripod and cable release out. You set up a focusing target, a way to measure it, and then you're going to need to set your camera up to the highest quality shallow a step the field scenario possible so low I s o a maximum opening on the aperture like a one point four in many cases, and then you're going to want to focus on your subject and take the picture so you want unfocused the lands. Let the camera automatically focused, and you're gonna want to playback and check the sharpest of the image to see if it's actually sharp and then make adjustments using the fine, too, either to make it focus a little bit closer to the front, or focus more towards the back to set that particular lands. And so if you have a very fast lens, like a fifty millimeter, one point for an eighty five one four, three or two point eight these are the type of folks that need to adjust the lens is if you have a twenty four to eighty five four five five six that would be considered a slower lands and it's not nearly as necessary because you're shallow a step the field has quite a bit of depth of field to it, so it's only for those folks with really shallow depth of field sell next up h d m I here is where you get to control the output resolution of the camera so you can do anything from automatic from four eighty up to ten eighty I there is an advanced section in here where you can have thie output range, display size or lcd display turned on or off and for somebody who's using an external display monitor or recording device, you're going to want to get into this hd my setting and customizing according to your needs because there's a lot of people who are using this camera for kind of high end video purposes and they need a much bigger, better quality monitor than the one that is on the back of this or they want to record externally and they want to either have clean data or they want to record that the shooting information that they're recording that varies from user to user but that's where you would go in and change it if you do have this little gp one a on your camera which sells for around three hundred bucks and plugs into the ten pin remote on the front of the camera you can go in here and control the location data information you can disable it or you could enable it you can have it record latitude and longitude or you're heading if you want and whether it's going to set the clock information from satellite information which may be very accurate but would use more battery power. Next up is the network setting here we go network setting and if you are going to be using this as a wireless system using their wireless system to download to a network, you can basically said set up the protocol for either the ftp upload or you could do image transfer or camera control or going toe http server on this and this is if you are using the u team one communication unit it's not something very many people have it so they'll probably already know to go in there and check it. One of the options you can buy for this camera is an ai fi card. This is a wireless card that has a certain amount of data that you can store straight to the card but it can also transmit to a nearby computer. One of the options is you go out shooting all day with this bring it back, said it near your computer, and it would wirelessly transfer those new images to your computer. And if you do have that in the camera, you'll see this option and allow you to go in and adjust the settings on how that card transfers images. The firmware version. Let me just do a double check on my camera on this one because they've had no firmware updates on their camera, and this is what it said last time here, and so it still says that the c stands for camera. The camera has version one point o one, which is what the eight ten got introduced. If you're watching this at some point in the future, maybe the year twenty seventeen, they might have some updates to the firmware and made some improvements to the camera, and so you can go to night cons website and download the current firmware for the camera. There is also lends firmware, which is data about different lenses, about how much vignette ing and how much distortion they have. So if you use those features in camera, it can access all of that information for all the lenses. Right now we are at linz two point zero zero five in the future, they will come out. With more lenses, and they'll come out with new software updates for the lens as well. So if you have a camera that has numbers smaller than this, or smaller than what nikon is listening on their website currently, then you can get those free updates through the nikon website in a variety of countries around the world. But here in the united states would be nikon, yusa, dot com, I believe. Question, are those two separate files that you have to download? They are two separate files. Yes, thank you.
Ratings and Reviews
All of the instructors here at Creative live are fun and informative to watch and learn from. But when it comes to serious education and really getting into the detail of what you're trying to learn, I would say that John Greengo is that Top Instructor that everyone should be looking for. I have Quite a few classes that I've purchased from Creative live and I follow all the instructors pages and blogs and just continuously soak up knowledge from them... But whether you need broad instruction about a general subject like "photography" or something specific like This Course Fast Start Nikon D810, John is your Go-To guy. I also have his Fundamentals courses, his Nikon D5000 series class and his Beginners essentials class. (though I am not a beginner it's fantastic for brushing up on skills you may have forgotten) I not only recommend THIS class, but any class that John teaches. Especially his Fast Start Classes whether you're just getting a new camera model or you've had yours for a while and you want to learn more about it's capabilities.
Thanks John, an excellent and logical familiarisation with a camera I now love and use comfortably. Notes are brilliant and offer easy catch up with bits I forget. Great knowledge and teacher.
Wow, what a class, bit apprehensive at taking an online course but I was enthralled at the way John kept my interest and the size of the video are bite size enough to digest the information and assimilate. I bought a Nikon D810, whilst I don't profess to be a professional, I'd like to think that I'm a decent photographer and the move up from D300 was a massive decision and I always wanted to try and get on a course for that camera, but unfortunately, due to and cost in some cases it was not possible. I was determined to find something for the D810 and I came across creative live and I thought why not. I love the structure and I know more about the camera now than I did when I bought it 2 weeks ago. I watched all videos without the camera, just so I did not get distracted from what John was saying, now I will watch them again with the camera. Thank you so much for an interesting and engaging course, which was the better than being in a classroom.