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Adobe Photoshop: The Complete Guide Bootcamp

Lesson 10 of 118

Editing with the Effects and HLS Tabs

Ben Willmore

Adobe Photoshop: The Complete Guide Bootcamp

Ben Willmore

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Lesson Info

10. Editing with the Effects and HLS Tabs

Lessons

  Class Trailer
Now Playing
2 Bridge vs. Lightroom Duration:06:39
3 Tour of Photoshop Interface Duration:18:21
4 Overview of Bridge Workspace Duration:07:42
9 Developing Raw Images Duration:30:33
11 How to Save Images Duration:03:37
12 Using the Transform Tool Duration:04:48
14 Selection Tools Duration:05:55
15 Combining Selection Tools Duration:07:37
17 Quick Mask Mode Duration:05:07
18 Select Menu Essentials Duration:21:28
20 Align Active Layers Duration:07:29
21 Creating a New Layer Duration:06:15
22 Creating a Clipping Mask Duration:03:02
23 Using Effects on Layers Duration:11:24
24 Using Adjustment Layers Duration:16:44
25 Using the Shape Tool Duration:04:39
30 Adding Texture to Images Duration:09:11
35 Understanding Curves Duration:06:18
36 Editing an Image Using Curves Duration:18:41
39 Editing with Blending Modes Duration:08:04
40 Color Theory Duration:05:59
41 Curves for Color Duration:16:52
42 Hue and Saturation Adjustments Duration:08:59
44 Match Colors Using Numbers Duration:16:59
45 Adjusting Skin Tones Duration:05:25
52 Clone Between Documents Duration:13:19
53 Crop Tool Duration:10:07
54 Frame Tool Duration:02:59
56 Paint Brush Tools Duration:13:33
57 History Brush Tool Duration:06:27
58 Eraser and Gradient Tools Duration:03:06
60 Blur and Shape Tools Duration:11:06
61 Dissolve Mode Duration:09:24
62 Multiply Mode Duration:15:29
63 Screen Mode Duration:14:08
64 Hard Light Mode Duration:14:54
66 Smart Filters Duration:11:32
67 High Pass Filter Duration:13:40
68 Blur Filter Duration:05:59
69 Filter Gallery Duration:07:42
70 Adaptive Wide Angle Filter Duration:04:43
71 Combing Filters and Features Duration:04:45
72 Select and Mask Duration:20:04
73 Manually Select and Mask Duration:08:08
74 Creating a Clean Background Duration:21:19
75 Changing the Background Duration:13:34
76 Smart Object Overview Duration:08:37
77 Nested Smart Objects Duration:09:55
78 Scale and Warp Smart Objects Duration:09:08
79 Replace Contents Duration:06:55
80 Raw Smart Objects Duration:10:20
83 Panoramas Duration:13:15
84 HDR Duration:11:20
85 Focus Stacking Duration:04:02
86 Time-lapse Duration:11:18
87 Light Painting Composite Duration:08:05
88 Remove Moire Patterns Duration:06:11
89 Remove Similar Objects At Once Duration:09:52
91 Replace a Repeating Pattern Duration:06:50
95 Warping Duration:11:03
96 Liquify Duration:14:02
97 Puppet Warp Duration:12:52
98 Displacement Map Duration:10:36
99 Polar Coordinates Duration:07:19
100 Organize Your Layers Duration:11:02
101 Layer Styles: Bevel and Emboss Duration:02:59
102 Layer Style: Knockout Deep Duration:12:34
103 Blending Options: Blend if Duration:13:18
105 Layer Comps Duration:08:30
106 Black-Only Shadows Duration:06:07
109 Create an Antique Color Action Duration:13:52
110 Create a Contour Map Action Duration:10:20
111 Faux Sunset Action Duration:07:20
112 Photo Credit Action Duration:05:54
113 Create Sharable Actions Duration:07:31
117 Scratch Disk Is Full Duration:06:02
118 Preview Thumbnail Duration:02:10

Lesson Info

Editing with the Effects and HLS Tabs

there's a lot more Aiken do. Sometimes I go to these other tabs that are up here. Let's just experiment with one of the tabs. Let's see up here. We got a bunch of tabs. One of them is here called F X. What FX has is one of the options. I could add grain to my picture if I wanted to look grainy, but I don't want to. And here's what's called post crop vignette ing. Just the word vignette ing is what's important Vignette in means darkening the edge of your picture. So I'm gonna take this slider that's called Amount and move it to its the left. Remember, I'm under the tab called F X right here to find this. If I bring that down, it should dark in the edge of my picture. Bring it way down. You'll notice it more. Well, I'm gonna bring it all the way down just to make it obvious. Then we have some settings below it to control what it looks like. We have midpoint, which is how far does that darkening effect extend towards the middle of the picture? Or do you want to limit it to only keep it on...

the very edge we have roundness, roundness, which is sowed. What's the curvature like in this? If you can see if I bring it way down more like a rounded corner rectangle? If I bring it way up, it's more like a circle. And so I have to decide what might be best. And then we have Feather in Feather is house soft is a transition. Is it relatively immediate like that, or is it gonna get softer and softer? I usually have feather turned way up, so I might find, too. In these midpoint bring it out just a little bit. And then I just think it's too obvious, and that's because my amount is turned all the way down. So now that I find Tune the other Settings, who's gonna bring that up and decide how dark? And I think I can make the edge now when I do that, it looks well. It's obvious that I've done it, but mainly to me, because it doesn't make sense. The sky is dark of here. That's where I notice it more so there's a slider here called highlights, and if there's anything extremely bright right around the edge of the picture and I bring up highlights. Watch what happens to that bright area like up in the upper left where the sky is. You see how I can get it to brighten up again, so it won't affect those really bright areas. So now if I turn this little icon off, you know, this I could have been using to show you before and after what it actually does. Is it previews on Lee the tab you're working in. So if I turn that off now, it's on Lee showing me what it looks like when before I did the post crop been getting Then I click it again and it shows me after I've added it. And I like that cause it makes it so I concentrate more in the center of this picture so you can see how this stuff underneath the tabs could be useful. Uh, all right, let's work with some other images. This image feels hazy anytime in image feels hazy, like there's a fog in the distance. That's what I'm going to go for. D. Hayes. What's d hey is gonna do? It's gonna make the darkest portion of the picture even darker, closer to black, that's gonna break through the haze. Because if you look up here at the top of the photograph, is there anything at all in this top portion anywhere near black? No. It's only where it doesn't look so hazy that you have things closer to black. So if I end up coming in here and I bring up Dee Hayes, it'll make the darkest portion of the picture get closer and closer to black. I'm looking at the top portion of the image, deciding when in my breaking through the haze okay, right about there. I've broken through a lot of the haze, and then I'm gonna find Tune the rest of the image A Ziff. I didn't have Hayes, so I noticed there's too much green blue at the top of the picture. I can attempt to move the white balance, but that top of the picture needs a different amount than the bottom of the picture because I get to yellow by the time I get over there. Then I can try Tent A swell Yeah, it helps. It helps it a little, but this is where again, the sliders that are found on the under. These other tabs, I think, will be useful. One of the other tabs that is here is notice the H s L adjustments. And if I click on it, we're gonna have separate adjustments for individual colors so we can tweak what is in our picture that are these colors. And we can tweak either the brightness, which is known as Lou Minutes Weaken treat, tweak how colorful it IHS or what color it is. So in this case, I'm gonna go for saturation. I'm just gonna glance up here and think that looks bluish green. So I'm gonna take the blues and bring the slider down, working on saturation and I'll take the greens and I'll bring the slider down to say Make blue and green things less colorful. I could also go toe luminous that controls brightness and say, Make blue things darker. You see, at the top of the photo, I think that was bluish area that looks a lot less hazy. And if I wanted to, But I rarely need to. I could go to Hugh and let's say the color and the roof tops of these buildings aren't quite what I want Well, I'd say that's orangish so I could go to the oranges and Hugh means basic color. I can say, Well, let's shift them around a little bit. Although it might not be orangish, it might be reddish. And if you're in this area that's called H S L. You can goto a tool at the top of your screen. It's up here. It's a weird looking tool. This thing it's called the targeted adjustment tool. And if you click on it, then when you move your mouse into your image, watch what happens. I'll go to saturation here, so that's controlling how colorful some Penis. Click on this building in the distance, and then I'll drag up and down. Do you notice it's moving sliders? For me? It's figuring out which sliders would affect that color the most, so therefore, I could make it less colorful. Maybe I go up to the trees, okay, it thinks the trees air blue and a little purplish. Then I can decide. Do I want to just the brightness, which is called ruminants. What do I want to just how colorful something is, which is saturation. So now go to the rooftops and say, Do I want it to be less or more colorful? And so you can tweak the individual colors to turn your picture? I want whatever's out here to be less colorful there. Let's see what we've done just with these sliders called HS cell sliders will hit that icon near the lower right. This is before see how blue the top Look, Here's after all, right. Earlier, we worked on this image when I talked about D. Hayes, but we hadn't really worked with the other sliders who were in here. So here, vibrance and saturation, I want toe lower at least one of those to make it less colorful. And then I think it starts to look fine. If I want detail in the sky, wouldn't that be called highlights? Decide how dark I want my sky. I'm limited and how much I can adjust it, though if you want the detail to come out, that's either clarity if you want big detail on texture, if you want the really fine detail, but you won't notice texture unless you're zoomed in. Uh, and then maybe a lower contrast. There's too great of a difference between the bright and dark areas there. Let's see before and after all to click that icon lower right before after I like that a lot more, you just keep adjusting. What don't you like in here? The dark area to dark? OK, that's cold. Shadows Crank it up. Then there's too great of a difference between bright and dark. Well, that's called contrast. Bring it down. I want the detail to pop out. That's clarity. The colors look weird. Well, if it's weird, that's usually temperature intent. But if it's that it's not colorful enough or too colorful, that's vibrance and saturation. I'll hit the icon for before. After now, Once you've adjusted some images, you're gonna find there's buttons here we have done. Cancel an open image. Uh, cancel means you screwed it up and you don't want to save what you did. It's not going to save any of the changes you made since you entered camera, so I only hit Cancel when I really screwed up. Done means save these changes to the image, which does not alter the original file at all, because remember, it's saved only its metadata, which is text. It just gets attached to the image So the next time you open it, these sliders will be in the same position. But you could always tell it to go to default settings in the upper right on the right here. Default settings. It would always bring you back to the original picture because Kamerad does not change the original. It just saves it as metadata. Ah, but done is what means I'm done and save these settings to the file Open image does. The same thing is done. It saves the settings to the to the file, but it also opens it in photo shop because you want to do more to the image.

Class Description

All individual classes that make up this bootcamp are also available here for individual purchase.

AFTER THIS CLASS YOU’LL BE ABLE TO:

  • Develop an understanding of how Photoshop works
  • Create your ideal workspace
  • Configure the essential preference settings
  • Set up Adobe Bridge and Lightroom for optimal integration with Photoshop
  • Navigate multiple images seamlessly

ABOUT BEN’S CLASS:

Adobe® Photoshop® 2020 is a feature-rich creative force, perfect for turning raw ideas into audience-wowing images. With Ben Willmore as your guide, you can master it faster than you think and take on a new decade of projects.

Ben takes you step-by-step through Adobe Photoshop 2020 as only he can. With an easy pace and zero technobabble, he demystifies this powerful program and makes you feel confident enough to create anything. This class is part of a fully-updated bundle – complete with 2020 features and more efficient ways to maximize the tools everyone uses most.

Whether you’re a 20-year designer or you’re opening the app for the first time, this is the perfect way to learn and love using Photoshop. From retouching to masking to troubleshooting, Ben unpacks all the essentials and hidden gems, while giving you real-world examples to drive each lesson home. By the end of the class, you’ll feel eager to make serious magic with Photoshop 2020.

WHO THIS CLASS IS FOR:

  • Beginner, intermediate, and advanced users of Adobe Photoshop.
  • Those who want to gain confidence in Adobe Photoshop and learn new features to help edit photos.
  • Students who’d like to take ordinary images and make them look extraordinary with some image editing or Photoshop fixes.

SOFTWARE USED:

Adobe Photoshop 2020 (V21)

Reviews

Noel Ice
 

I am an avid reader of photoshop books, and an avid watcher of photoshop tutorials. I have attended (internet) several hundred of presentations. In the course of this endeavor, I have found my own favorite photoshop websites and instructors. Creative Live is probably the bargain out there as well as among the top three internet course sites. I have to say with great enthusiasm that the best Photoshop instructor is Ben Willmore. There are many great ones, but truly, he is the best I have come across, and, as indicated above, I have watched literally 100s of tutorials on Photoshop. I have seen all of Ben's courses, I think, and among them, this one is the best by far, and that is saying a lot, because that makes this course the best course on Photoshop to be found anywhere. I am going back and watching it twice. Not only is it comprehensive, but Ben is so familiar with his subject that he is able to explain it like no other. This is crème de la crème of Photoshop classes. I have been wanting to write this review for some time because I have been so thoroughly impressed with everything about this class!

a Creativelive Student
 

Wow. I cannot communicate the value of this course!! The true value in this course is how the instructor identifies workflows you'll need before you'll ever realize it, repeats important information without it becoming annoying, and explains the "why" behind the techniques so well that even if you forget the exact method, you can figure it out via the principles learned. Excellent value, excellent material, excellent instructor!!!

marianne
 

The short lessons makes it easy to find things. Clear explanations, structured content, great examples, handbook plus practice images - this class is worth x10 the price! I have seen many of Ben's classes and I'm so happy you created this one, love it