Lessons
Differences Between Lightroom Desktop and Lightroom Classic
19:42 2Hard Drives
08:06 3File Organization
08:31 430,000 Foot View of Workflow
05:36 5Importing into Lightroom
04:10 6Building Previews
07:14 7Collections and Publish Services
05:11 8Keywords
06:27Hardware for Lightroom
06:08 10Searching for Images
07:51 11Selecting Images
14:15 12Organizing Images
04:02 13Collecting Images for Use
14:56 14Develop Module Overview
10:15 15Profiles
11:34 16Basic Adjustments
11:45 17Basics Panel: Texture, Clarity, and Dehaze
05:31 18Basics Panel: Saturation and Vibrance
02:40 19Tone Curve
09:26 20HSL
04:48 21Split Tone
08:19 22Lens Corrections
08:32 23Details
09:34 24Transform Tool
05:52 25Effects Panel
10:00 26Synchronizing for Faster Editing
07:40 27Spot Tool
17:51 28Skin Softening and Brush Work
07:00 29Range Masking
13:28 30Dodge and Burn
17:36 31Working with Specific Colors
08:30 32Edit Quickly with Gradient Filters
11:22 33Making Presets
13:24 34Preparing Image in Lightroom
09:51 35Content Aware Fill
11:14 36Skin Repair
02:44 37Skin Smoothing
14:39 38Expanding a Canvas
04:30 39Liquify
10:22 40Layers and Composite Images
12:54 41Sharing via Web
17:52 42Exporting Files
10:47 43Sharing with Slideshows
08:00 44Archiving Photos and Catalogs
19:54 45Designing
13:35 46Making Prints
11:27 47Color Management and Profiles
13:00 48Archiving Photos and Catalogs
11:31 49Using Cloud Storage
04:09 50Adding Images to your Portfolio
09:23 51Collecting for Your Portfolio
18:03 52Publishing Unique Websites Per Project
19:48 53Sharing to Instagram
07:06 54HDR
15:32 55Panorama
06:41 56HDR Panorama
09:54 57Making Presets
15:39 58Creating Profiles
18:09 59Maps
07:08 60Setup for Tethered Shooting
23:21 61Sharing with the Client
05:42 62Watched Folder Process
07:04 63Second Monitor and iPad
06:09 64Backup at the Camera
03:50 65Gnar Box Disk Backup
06:45 66iPhone and iPad Review
12:52 67Importing to Lightroom on iPad
02:59 68Cloud Backup
04:39 69Adjust, Edit, and Organize
07:46 70Using Lightroom Between Devices
11:27 71Lightroom Desktop
05:27 72Removing Images from the Cloud
10:49 73Profiles
09:34 74Light
04:34 75Color
05:36 76Effects
15:22 77Details
08:33 78Optics
03:49 79Geometry
04:12 80Crop
04:39 81Adding and Using Presets and Profiles
13:41 82Local Adjustments
15:40 83Healing Tool
03:29 84Synchronizing Edits
04:57 85Editing in Photoshop
08:54 86Finding Images
07:09 87Sharing and Exporting Albums on the Web
09:18 88Posting Images to Social Media
14:01 89Overview of Lightroom Desktop
07:35 90The Workflow Overview
10:08 91Organizing Images
05:10 92Albums and Shared Albums
18:21 93Lightroom Desktop Workspace Overview
04:36 94Importing and Selecting Images
09:23 95HDR and Panoramics
22:44 96Light
07:47 97Profiles
07:23 98Tone Curves
02:57 99Color
08:35 100Effects
17:01 101Details
12:43 102Optics
04:05 103Geometry and Crop Tool
06:01 104Sync Settings
02:40 105Making and Adding Presets
03:48 106Healing Brush
02:21 107Brush Tool
03:14 108Gradient Tool
04:16 109Edit in Photoshop
02:53 110Finding Images with Sensei
06:32 111Sharing Albums on the Web
04:57 112Print through Photoshop
02:09 113Exporting Images to Files or Web Services
04:36 114Connecting with Lightroom Classic and Mobile Devices
05:24 115Archiving Images for Storage
09:55 116Review of the Workflow
07:20Lesson Info
Effects Panel
I want to go into the grain and the effects panel. So first off, the effects panel has two things in it has untold holdover from a long time ago. So a long time ago, they had a, um before they have the ability to automatically remove, I think is before that automatically removed the vignette ing They had this post crop vignette. I'm sorry. They No, it was It was that the reason that they made the post crop vignette was that people were interested in using the vignette ing option. So they were using the vignette Ah, removal tool toe add vignette because they like the idea of adding vignettes. But the problem was that when you cropped, the vignette was outside of the crop. And so they added the post crop vignette tool in order to allow people to do artistic post crop vignette ing. Um, the problem is that it's still always around the edges. So it's a center, um centric vignette like the vignette always goes to the center. And so consequently, I never, ever, ever used post coffin yet becau...
se there's so many better ways to do it. Um, for instance, you now have what's called a radial tool. So this radial radiant tool allows you to do a vignette anywhere on the photo you want and centered exactly the way they want and give it the right amount of of, um, feathering. And so it's It's the perfect vignette tool, so I don't even understand why we have a post crop vignette tool at all. But it's there, Um, and it's just a matter of changing the amount, and it gets darker, but see how it's always in the center. I could go dark Aiken, go light, Um, but it's it's always in the center, so it's fairly useless because rarely is the thing that you want in the actual center of the photograph. If if you're finding that you're photographs, can always use the post crop vignette because the thing that you want to focus on is always in the center, you're probably not very inventive about the way you're shooting. So you you might want toe, you know, turn that up a little bit. Do something different with your with your compositions because you should be putting stuff in other places and so post crop vignette not interested in it, but there it is. That's how it works. Once you do this, once you add of and yet you can then change how close the midpoint is or how far away it is. You can choose how round or square the vigna is. You can change the feathering. Um, this is my favorite thing to do with post crop vignette is to actually make like a old timey round photo there. That's how it's useful. Um, so anyway, let's reset that and let's go to what is useful. And that's the grain. I love the grain tool. And the reason I love the grain tool is for this purpose right here. So I'm gonna show you a photograph of a girl and I'm I had grain on her already. So I'm gonna zoom in and you can see that her skin has some inconsistencies and some blemishes and things like that on it. And so I've already done a little bit of retouching on it, but I didn't go nuts with the retouching, and there's just there's just it's just needs some work on the skin. And I don't want to do all of that kind of work and especially people who are doing like, let's say you're doing a senior portrait. Well, a senior in high school has probably a lot of acne and stuff like that. You don't want to have to go in a room, move acne before you even show the photograph to the person to find out if they're even gonna buy it. Well, the grain tool is perfect because it allows you to add grain and thus add a disrupter in front of the image that keeps people from seeing wrinkles, blemishes, inconsistencies and skin. It actually Smoothes the skin, even though it's actually making it rough. So, um, and the reason behind that, simply that your eye is trained or your brain is trained to follow lines. So you are always following lines. Everywhere you look, you're always following lines, and a blemish is just a circular line. And so if you put something a crossed the line, your eye gets distracted and doesn't follow the line, so therefore it doesn't see it. So if you can, if you can. If you can break up enough lines, then you won't ever see the line that's there. And so grain just naturally does that because it's random pattern of disrupting lines. And so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go into her skin and I'm just going to add some grain. And usually I like to start the green kind of in the 20 range or something like that, so you can see that there's some roughness being created. And then I like to take this the roughness. I like to take that nice and high because that makes it chunky. So a little chunk in the grain is good, and then the size is the size is going to be based on the size of the photograph. So if the photograph is gonna be printed big or small, it'll change what kind of grain you want. And also, if you have a 13 megapixel file versus a you know, 20 megapixel file, it's ah, it's a difference in the size that you need. So in order to do that, you just gonna have to play around with it and see how big the grain has to be or how small asked to be to be appropriate to do the job that you're trying to do, and it it softens up the skin so you see how here's without grain, you can see this line. You can see cause this is smooth and this is rough, and that's rough in this is smooth. But as soon as I turn on the grain, it's the great unifier, and everything looks a little softer, a little smoother, a little bit more even. You can also add a little bit of negative contrast, so a little negative contrast, um, a little negative texture in the basic slider area and then some grain helps to make skin look a lot more beautiful, especially for just the moment if you want someone to see the skin but not really pay much attention to it at a little grain in it and it unifies it. Plus, grain just looks awesome. I love green, especially on a black and white photograph or on, you know, an architectural like street photography. That kind of stuff. Love, grain, Lovett moments. So any time I do black and white, I am always adding grain to it. In fact, I almost I probably add grain to 90% of my images, uh, at a wedding, so just a little bit of grain goes a long way to make that image look deeper and nicer. Um, so that's That's the effects panel there. And it's it's a beautiful way to finish off in image with a little grain. Now, I want you to notice something about the way light room is organized. Light room has organized so that the most important things are on the top, and the things that you'd use less often are on the bottom. And so if I open up the basic panel, you start up here in the profile and then you go down to the white balance and then you keep so you keep going down and then you would end up going into from the basic. You go to the tone curves in the HSE cells and all of these things. But the way I like toe work inside of light room is I like to use the basic panel to do all of my basic work. That's the underlying image. The image itself normalize the image with the basic panel, but I very rarely want to go into these areas here. Instead, what I do is, I create looks. I create tools, um, here, by going over to the left hand side and adding presets. So if I've worked as you saw, if I worked on the tone curve and I've got a nice look, then I need to add it to a preset. That way I can simply adjust the photos here and then come over here and apply the preset. That adds the look that I want to that I've created over time. So never spend your time specifically working on things here with every individual photograph. That's just not a good use of your time. Instead, work on these things work for 10 or 20 minutes on the perfect tone curve and then save it as a preset and then use that preset often. But that means you never have to go back to the actual tone curve area. You just simply adjust the image, and then, once the images adjusted, apply the tone curve you want, or apply the green setting that you want or apply the interesting color tones that you've made or apply the whatever effect. The only one that's different from that is the lens correction or the transform. Because transform tool, you actually have to go in and tell it where the lines are on dso that that one, you do have to go down and use it. But in general, if you can get to the point where you're spending all your time in the basic and then coming over here to push a button to accomplish all of the style settings that you want to add to the photograph, you will get through that process a lot faster.
Class Materials
Bonus Materials with Purchase
Ratings and Reviews
Ira Richterman
I am truly a recreational novice in the photography world and this video is fantastic. Photography has become a very technical world both on the camera side as well as post production. Jared has great teaching skills and sure makes it look very simple. I would recommend this video for those starting out in Lightroom as this program can be overwhelming and has a daunting amount of information. I would like to know if there is a resource of location of contact to ask a question or two for clarifications as a viewer goes through the course. For example, when making a new collection and if you choose the option of making this new collection a target collection, what happens if you then make another new collection and select that new collection to be a target collection? If you click on B to add a photo to a target collection and you made two target collections then where does this virtual selection go, ie into which target collection? Thanks Ira irichterma@aol.com
Dan Clarke
This class was great. I've never used Lightroom before and now I feel comfortable in it. Massive amount of good info.
catherine Haggerty
Loved this class. As a beginner it really gives me working knowledge to use LR confidently. This class is older, so a few times I really had to stop and figure out how it worked in the newest version of LR... but all in all this class was amazing!